BATTAMBANG
Battambang
Battambang is a classically quaint provincial capital - old-world architecture and even older pagodas set picturesquely along a river, and even though the city is one of the country's largest, it is still lightly touristed. In town, charming colonial-era buildings line narrow lanes, including the ‘walking district’ near the market where contemporary art galleries, local and foreign cafes, bars and shops inhabit the old shophouses. Battambang is a place to explore the architecture and budding art scene, check out the local cuisine, and to use as a base for excursions into the nearby countryside.
Outside of town the scenery quickly becomes one of villages and rice paddies, offering an excellent opportunity to see a bit of rural Cambodia. The nearby countryside harbors several picturesque old pagodas, Angkorian era ruins, caves, mountains, waterfalls and the famous ‘bamboo train.’
Though hotels are scattered across the city, as Battambang is fairly small, most are no more than 500 meters to 1 km from town center. There are several new places in the area of the bus stations, at the north end of town and along the east side of the river in the center of tow. At the budget end of the spectrum, there are some unique little guesthouses like Ganesha and Here Be Dragons and others.
Accomodations
Cambana La Rivière Hotel
Range: $80 – $185
Elegant boutique hotel combining Khmer and contemporary design with French touches. Spacious a/c rooms and suites with modern amenities and free wifi. Outdoor swimming pool, garden, fitness centre, spa and restaurant/bar. 24-hour front desk, airport transfers and tour arrangements available. Visa/MC accepted.
Tel: 017 977 727
www.cambanalariviere.com
Romchek Village 5, Battambang.
Maisons Wat Kor
Range: $60 – $100
Charming eco-style resort set in a traditional Khmer village. Spacious, beautifully decorated a/c rooms with balconies overlooking lotus ponds and gardens. Free in-room wifi, mini-bar, safety box, tea/coffee facilities and complimentary breakfast. Saltwater swimming pool, restaurant/bar, massage pavilion and tranquil surroundings. Ideal for a quiet stay.
Tel: 017 555 377
www.maisonswatkor.com
Wat Kor Village, Battambang Province.
Battambang Resort
Range: $70 – $90
Lovely resort in a peaceful garden setting just south of town. Well-appointed a/c rooms and bungalows with modern amenities. Large outdoor swimming pool with restaurant and bar overlooking the gardens. Relaxed atmosphere, good breakfast, room service, tour assistance and free parking. Visa/MC accepted.
Tel: 012 510 100
www.battambangresort.com
Wat Kor Village, south of Battambang town.
Recommendations
Battambang’s dining and drinking scene is modest but interesting and varied, with good inexpensive local dining at places like White Rose and Chinese Noodle Dumpling, several places serving proper international fare such as Green Mango, Riverside Balcony and Eden, and some more unique offerings, especially in the Walking District area, such as Choco l’Art, Bar Libations and Vintage.
The picturesque Walking District is of special note. The area of just a few square blocks harbors more than a dozen cafes and bars as well as a few shops and galleries in classic colonial era buildings, especially between Street 121 (‘Pub Street’) and the market along Streets 1.5, 2 and 2.5.
The ‘Night Market’ on the riverfront in front of Phsar Nath is a great place to try local foods. The stands and cafes are geared for the locals but are foreigner friendly, and very inexpensive. Noodle dishes, soups, pate sandwiches, fried meats, Cambodian fruit shakes and more. There is a similar evening cluster of food stands near the Provincial Museum.
Come early evening, there is a pretty good choice of places for sundowners. Riverside Balcony, Bar Libations, Lotus Gallery and Bar, Madison Corner and Here There Be Dragons are all good places to begin. Battambang shuts down fairly early, with Madison Corner often the last bar in the Walking District to shut its doors at night.
Dining & Drinking In Koh Kong
Hostel By The Sea Cafe & Restaurant
Known for its relaxed, beachfront atmosphere and a diverse menu that includes Mediterranean, Turkish, and international cuisine, such as pizza, falafel wraps, and fresh seafood.
Tel: +855 97 787 3454
Saracen bay. Koh Rong Samloem, Sihanoukville 09000 Cambodia
Baan Peakmei
Long-running, popular, well-reviewed local restaurant know for its very good, reasonably priced Thai food. Also serving Cambodian dishes. Located for years on the main road in town, now located in the Asian Hotel on the river road. The steamed fish in lemon is recommended.
Riverfront road, in the Asian Hotel
Koh Kong Resort
Casino-hotel complex. Full casino. Several dining venues, with the focus on seafood, Thai, Chinese and international. Serving some of the best Thai food in Koh Kong. Visa/MC
Tel: 016-700970 , 012-779033
www.kohkongresort.com
Located 200 meters Thai/Cambodian border
Battambang City is full of wonderful colonial-era and pre-colonial architecture as well as some very old and historic pagodas. And with the continuing development of Battambang's contemporary art scene, a walking district of sorts has developed amongst the picturesque streets and lanes just south of the market, harboring chic little art spaces and cafes.
Away from the city, the surrounding countryside harbors not only Angkorian-era ruins and historic pagodas but also offers some of the most picturesque rice paddy and village scenery in the country. The road trip out to the pagoda and Angkorian-era ruins at Ek Phnom is stunning. Last but not least, the famous Bamboo Train of Battambang is still running, sort of, transporting more tourists than locals these day.
Things To Do
Bamboo Train
The bamboo train is a unique and creative form of ad-hoc transportation. It consists of a small motorcycle engine-powered bamboo cart that rides the railroad tracks, picking up and dropping off passengers, cargo and animals along the way. When it meets bamboo train, it can be disassembled and taken off the rails in a minute or two, allowing the other to pass. The bamboo train near the city seems to be catering as much to tourists as locals these days, but is still the real deal. They now charge foreigner upwards of $5/pax.
Circus
The Phare Ponleu Selpak NGO gives Cambodian children from disadvantaged families the opportunity to “access culture via different artistic activities” including music, drawing, drama, dance and circus.
Guided visits available in the mornings and afternoons for $5. Regularly scheduled traditional Cambodian circus performances in the evenings (exhibition at 6:15PM, show at 7:00PM) for $14. Call 077-554413 for schedule.
Located on Route #5 about 1km west of town
Cooking Classes
Cambodian restaurant Nary Kitchen offers morning and evening cooking classes every day. Classes are conducted by Mrs. Nary and her husband Toot, who start off each class with a market tour to learn about local produce. Back at the restaurant you'll then learn to cook four traditional Cambodian dishes. Once you've finished, sit down and enjoy the fruits of your labor for lunch or dinner. Vegetarian options are available, and all students will go home with the recipes for the dishes that they prepared. At only $10 per person, the class is great value. Tel: 012-763950
The Smokin' Pot restaurant near the White Rose restaurant at the corner of Street 1 in the center of town also offers cooking classes.
Countryside Tour
The rural countryside outside of Battambang is National Geographic picturesque. Within just a few kilometers of town the countryside turns into small villages filled with stilted houses and rice paddies that stretch to the horizon. You’ll see plenty of countryside on the way to any of the local sites. Check out some of the local products in the making - rice paper, noodles and the fishpaste market. It’s all very traditional if not a bit unhygienic and smelly, but a interesting experience and adventure nonetheless. The roads are often rough and during the dry season. always exceptionally dusty. Bring a good hat and a krama to cover your nose and mouth.
Ek Phnom
Ek Phnom, about 45 minutes from Battambang, is an substantial early-11th century Angkorian-era temple ruin built as a Hindu temple under the ruler Suryavarman I. The temple is in rough condition, consisting of prasats on a platform with some Hindu themed carvings in pretty good condition. Wat Ek Phnom, a modern Buddhist pagoda, sits picturesquely next to the ruin and a small lake. The river road drive to Ek Phnom from Battambang passes through some absolutely beautiful countryside, along a palm lined Stung Sangker river and through several small villages.
Phnom Banan
Phnom Banan Phnom Banan is a mountaintop, mid-11th century Angkorian-era ruin consisting of five prasats (towers) arranged in the quincunx (five-pointed) form reminiscent of Angkor Wat. The temple was built by the Khmer ruler Udayadityavarman II, son of Suryavarman I, the king who built the temple at Ek Phnom. Several lintel carvings are in good condition. The mountaintop is a peaceful location with a sweeping view of the surrounding area. There is a small cave nearby known as L’Ang But Meas. A very old (150 years+) active pagoda at the base of the mountain.
As both are south of Battambang City, the trip to Phnom Banan is often combined with a stop at Phnom Sampeou
Pagodas
Battambang town and the surrounding countryside are rich with beautiful old pagodas, some of them hundreds of years old, highly respected and displaying some very unique art and architecture. There are nine pagodas in Battambang town alone. In town, Wat Kandal displays some of the most interesting architecture and vihear paintings. Wat Tahm Rei Saw, built in 1903, is one of those rare Cambodian wats to display paintings of the Hindu epic Reamker. See absolutely indispensable Around Battambang for more information about visiting the local pagodas.
Phnom Sampeou Mountain
Phnom Sampeou is a mountain steeped in legend, topped by Wat Sampeou and a group of caves used as 'killing caves' by the Khmer Rouge, containing the skeletal remains of their victims. The wat is unexceptional but the view is spectacular. The whole area in intertwined with the well-known Khmer folk legend of Neang Rumsay Sok, 'the girl who let down her hair.' Many of the local geographic features are named after aspects of the legend, including Phnom Sampeou (Boat Mountain.) Ask your guide or driver to tell you the legend. For sake of ease, take the winding path up the mountain rather than the stairs, which make for a formidable climb. In the evening around 6:00PM two of the caves disgorge millions of bats which pour into the dusk sky for more than 30 minutes, making quite an impressive site. Not to be missed if you happen to be at Phnom Sampeou in the evening.
Provincial Museum
The Battambang Provincial Museum on the riverfront in the center of town houses a large collection of Angkorian and pre-Angkorian artifacts - statues, carvings, bits of ancient temples, pottery, etc. These little provincial museums can be a real treat for the Angkor enthusiast, containing some rare and unique pieces, and this is one of the best of the provincial museums. Hours: 8:00AM-11:00AM / 2:00PM-5:00PM, make reservations for weekend visit and they will open the door for you. Friendly people always happy to see visitors. Guides available. Admission: US$1.00.
Tel: 092-914688 016-896727
Snack Tour
Battambang Resort offers a unique snack tour between town and Wat Kor Village. A short cycling tour (also possible by tuk tuk) brings you to different kind of food stalls where you can try all kinds of Cambodian snacks.
Every afternoon at 4:00PM.
Tel: 012-510100
www.battambangresort.com
Battambang is known for being the birthplace of Cambodia's most famous artists and musicians, but during the Khmer Rouge era the art scene was virtually destroyed. In recent years, Battambang has experienced an arts revival and become home to a vibrant emerging art scene. For years Battambang has been a place to buy marble and wood carvings, and colored gems from Pailin. And it still is, but as the art scene has begun to blossom again, several galleries and art spaces have opened.
Art spaces and unique shopping venues inhabit some of the old shophouses of the picturesque Walking District, especially along Street 2.5 and surrounding area. Sangker Gallery spotlights the work of local talent, many of them graduates of the NGO Phare Ponleu Selpak's fine arts school for at-risk youth. The Romcheik 5 Art Space on the east side of the river is also stand-out, hosting the works of Phare graduates in superior art space.
Some restaurants in town also feature local art. Lotus Bar & Gallery has a proper gallery upstairs with ongoing exhibitions by Cambodian and expat artists based in Battambang. The artsy Choco L’Art cafe, like many of the galleries, hangs the art Phare graduates on its walls.
Complimenting the art scene, the souvenir shopping, though a bit in Battambang, is unique and fascinating. The Lost Stick on Street 2.5 deserves special mention for its amazing curio collection, and Bric-à-Brac as well for its high quality crafts and textiles. For more traditional souvenirs, riverfront shops along Street 1 offer marble and wood carvings and statues and other souvenirs. .
SHOPS...
Bric-à-BracFine crafts woven before your eyes, extensive collection of old and new Southeast Asian textiles, antiques and curios. Local crafts, trimmings and tassels. Run by textile designer Morrison Polkingorne and photo stylist Robert Carmack. Visa/MC
Tel: 077-531562, 077-531549
www.bric-a-brac.asia
Corner Streets 2/119, Walking District
La Fabrik
Cool boutique shop specializing in locally made products such as scrubs and soaps, jewelry and carefully selected small souvenirs, and delicatessen line including coffees, teas, sugars and Cambodian rhum. Unique local packaging and labeling. Open Monday to Saturday 9AM-9PM and Sunday 4PM-8PM Closed in May and June.
Tel: 096-7744225
65 Streets 2.5, Walking District
The Lost Stick (The Jewel in the Lotus)
Magical little curio shop with interesting objects from Cambodia and beyond - postcards, medallions, old photos and posters, contemporary art by locals and expats, and a fascinating array bits and pieces.
Streets 2.5, Walking District
GALLERIES...
Sangker
Gallery set in a small colonial shophouse in the Walking district, with changing exhibitions at the upstairs gallery, and on-going displays downstairs.
Streets 1.5, Walking District
Romcheik 5 Art Space
Noted art space located on a quiet road on the east side of the river. Three level art space with multiple changing exhibitions of art, primarily from the Phare fine art school.
Streets 201A, east side of river
Shopping
Public and tourist services are much more limited than Phnom Penh, but for a provincial city, you can usually get most of what you need. There are a couple of well-stocked convenience stores in town, several banks and ATMs (especially clustered at the river end of the main market in the center of town), a provincial hospital, a couple of clinics and dentists, internet shops and widely available wifi.
Shopping: Markets & Convenience StoresOf the city’s three traditional markets, Phsar Nath is the primary market. Its distinctive clock tower on the river side is a local landmark. The market is geared to the locals, vending fruits, vegetables, meat, clothes, sundries, etc. Phsar Leu, just south of town, is the place to buy local fruits, including oranges and pomelos from Pursat, said to be the best in the country.
The most popular international mini-market in town is the Chea Neang Drink Shop, on the west side of Phsar Nath, offering a pretty good selection (for a provincial town) of imported foods, meats, cheeses, snacks and liquors and spirits.
Money and Banking
All banks encash travelers checks and change money and most have ATMs. There are several ATMs at the riverfront street corner in front of Phsar Nath. Moneychangers are concentrated around the market with a few along Road #1.
Medical
BouengChhouk Dental Clinic Dentistry: Implant, Oral Surgery, Orthodontics, Pediatric, Preventive, Endodontic & Restorative, General Consultation and Diagnosis, Aesthetics and Whitening, Prosthondontics, Dr. Ly Sokseyha.
Open: 7:30AM - 11:30AM / 1:30PM - 7:30PM
#212-213, (Next to Sorya Bus Station and Opposite Hang Lay Guesthouse) North of Boeung Chhoeuk Market, Battambang Province, Cambodia.
Tel: +(855)(0)12-872326
lysokseyha.dentalclinic@gmail.com
Yi Kuok Clinic
General medicine/surgery. 24h ambulance service. X-ray, CT-scan, ultrasound, ECG, lab, vaccinations. Approved insurance accepted. Visa/MC
South end of town