ISLANDS
The Islands Of Cambodia
A side destination from Sihanoukville just a couple of years ago, the islands of the Koh Rong Archipelago have become destinations in their own right. Set in the turquoise-blue waters of the Gulf of Thailand 30-50 minutes off the Sihanoukville coast, the two big islands of Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem are the most popular. Both have yet to see major development and though there are bungalows and resorts dotting most of the beaches, the islands still maintain a laid-back rustic charm not easily found elsewhere. The smaller islands of the archipelago like Koh Thmei and Koh Ta Kiev are completely undeveloped and offer a true Robinson Crusoe atmosphere. Most of the islands are slated for major development, so if you're looking to appreciate the rustic atmosphere, go sooner rather than later.
The Islands near Sihanoukville
The largest and most developed of the islands is Koh Rong (map), located 40-50 minutes by express ferry or 2.5 hours by standard ferry. This island is one of the most beautiful in the archipelago, with miles of white sand beaches, gently swaying palms and tropical fruit orchards. It also has one of the most ‘developed’ beaches - Koh Toch - at least in terms of the number of bungalows, guesthouses and restaurants.
Koh Rong offers guest houses and bungalows and bungalows and more are springing up every day, ranging from dormitories and inexpensive home stays to flashpacker accommodations and fancier, well-appointed family-sized bungalows.
KOH TOCH BEACH at the southeastern tip of the island is where most of the accommodations are situated, and it's the busiest part of the island, with nightly beach barbecues, music and fire dancers into the wee hours, not to mention the Full Moon Parties. If this isn't your cup of tea, there are more secluded options located around the island including Long Beach on the sunset side of the island offering a few rustic bungalows.
For those looking for something a little more luxurious, just off of Koh Rong are two private islands known as SONG SAA (‘sweethearts’) that are home to an all-inclusive five-star resort, the first of its kind in Cambodia.
Koh Rong Sanloem (Samloem)
(map) Koh Rong Sanloem (or Samloem) is the somewhat smaller and more tranquil of the big two islands. While offering a wide variety of accommodations and restaurants, especially on Saracen Bay and M’Pay Bay, the island has a generally more tranquil and peaceful atmosphere than Koh Rong and Koh Toch Beach.
Saracen Bay on the land side of Koh Rong Sanloem is the busiest beach, sporting several restaurants and accommodations from cheap and cheerful to upscale bungalows. Saracen Bay (and M’Pay Bay) is also where the Sihanoukville ferries docks, and is the place to pick up boats to other beaches on island and to Koh Rong. A few guesthouses dot the beaches on the west side of the island, which is a moderately easy 1km walk across the island from Saracen Bay. M’Pay Bay village on the northern corner of the island also has several guesthouses and a couple of good restaurants.
Getting to Koh Rong Sanloem is easy. There are several daily speed ferries and slow boats from Sihanoukville and from Koh Rong. By speed ferry it is a 40-50 minutes ride from Sihanoukville and only about 10 minutes from Koh Rong. The slow boat takes about 2.5 hours from Sihanoukville.
Besides lounging in the sun there’s plenty to do on Koh Rong Sanloem - most of the usual island activities - snorkeling, trekking, mountain biking, inexpensive boat cruises, fishing and some pretty good scuba diving opportunities. There are a few foreign-run dive outfitters on the island that offer fun dive and certification, including The Dive Shop with an office on Saracen Bay.
There are no banks or ATMs on Koh Rong Sanloem and very few places accept credit cards. Bring the money that you will need. And though there is phone and internet, it can be spotty. .
Other Islands
Closer to shore than the big islands and completely undeveloped, Koh Ta Kiev is a lovely island with come-and-go beachside camping and simple treehouse accommodation. Lovely yellow sand beaches dotted with pine trees offer the perfect spot for reading and relaxing. The kind of ‘forgotten island’ that will not last in the face of expanding development. The island also offers many bird-watching and snorkeling opportunities.
Located off Ream National Park at the eastern edge of the archipelago is Koh Thmei, an island on the brink of development but is still blissfully quiet. Flanked by mangrove forests and home to more than a hundred species of birds, the island offers splendid sunset views and the chance to stay in a compound of ecologically minded bungalows that are set up with solar power and a special water filtration system. (Koh Thmei Resort.) Otherwise Koh Thmei is as yet still almost completely untouched and receives very few visitors.
Koh Russei used to be favored by backpackers. Very basic bungalows hugged the shore. Alas, that is all finished. The island has been slated for development and is currently undergoing the first stages. There are no accommodations (even camping) on the island.
Further offshore are Koh Tang and Koh Prins, which are only reachable by boat, a trip that can take as much as eight hours. These islands offer what are said to be the best diving opportunities in Cambodia, but visits must be chartered or arranged through a diving outfit.
Many of the accommodations are quite rustic - wooden bungalows and rooms on the beach, though more mid and upper range places are becoming available. It's best to reserve a room in advance, especially in the high season. On the busier beaches you can often find a vacancy but the selection may be limited. If you are not staying on one of the beaches serviced by the ferry, ask your guesthouse about a transport to their beach or island.
Accomodations
The largest and most developed of the islands is Koh Rong, located 40-50 minutes by express ferry or 2.5 hours by standard ferry. This island is one of the most beautiful in the archipelago, with miles of white sand beaches, gently swaying palms and tropical fruit orchards. It also has one of the most ‘developed’ beaches - Koh Toch - at least in terms of the number of bungalows, guesthouses and restaurants.
Koh Rong offers dozens of guesthouses and bungalows and more are springing up every day, ranging from dormitories and inexpensive home stays to flashpacker accommodations and fancier, well-appointed family-sized bungalows.
Click on the hotel name for more photos and information
Koh Rong
Range: $10 - $25
Large wood and thatch bungalows on the sand right at the water’s edge. Bungalows with fan, en suite toilet and large private balcony. Restaurant and bar.
Tel: 078-559959
Koh Rong Island, Long Beach (west side
Green Ocean Guesthouse
Range: $10 - $25
Ideal location to enjoy the island's nightlife. Offering simple ensuite double and twin fan rooms with wifi, as well as activities and ticket bookings. The guesthouse is right on the beach. Nighttime fire-dancer performances.
Tel: 010-505353
Koh Rong Island, Koh Toch Beach
Highland Beach Bungalow
Range: $13 - $40
Simple wooden bungalows on the hill above Koh Toch village. Double and twin fan-cooled rooms with either en suite or shared bathrooms, as well as bungalows with private balconies.
Tel: 087-965588, 087-985588
highlandbeach_bgl@yahoo.com
Koh Rong Island, Koh Toch Beach
Koh Rong Sanloem (or Samloem) is the somewhat smaller and more tranquil of the big two islands. While offering a wide variety of accommodations and restaurants, especially on Saracen Bay and M’Pay Bay, the island has a generally more tranquil and peaceful atmosphere than Koh Rong and Koh Toch Beach
Koh Rong Sanloem
Homestay Resort
Range: $5 - $45
Individual rustic wood & thatch bungalows with private verandas, on the beach, right at the ocean’s edge. Fan, en suite toilet. Dining and drinking. Fresh from the seafood and more.
Tel: 088-9907786 016-658480
Koh Rong Sanloem Island, Saracen Bay
Range: $40 - $65
Nicely designed and constructed beach front bungalows on Saracen Bay. Picture window and private balcony. Restaurant and bar.
Visa/MC/JCB/AMEX/GD/ANZ
Tel: 070-284005 086-284005
www.orchidresort.asia
Koh Rong Sanloem Island, Saracen Bay
Natural Island Bungalow
Range: $50 - $65
Stylish en suite wooden bungalows with private balconies directly on the beach. Restaurant/bar serves Cambodian and Asian food. Beachside sun loungers available all day.
Tel: 010-351005, 061-776565, 097-7736565
Koh Rong Sanloem Island, Saracen Bay
Koh Ta Kiev is a lovely island with come-and-go beachside camping and simple treehouse accommodation. Lovely yellow sand beaches dotted with pine trees offer the perfect spot for reading and relaxing. The kind of ‘forgotten island’ that will not last in the face of expanding development. The island also offers many bird-watching and snorkeling opportunities.
Koh Thmei, an island on the brink of development but is still blissfully quiet. Flanked by mangrove forests and home to more than a hundred species of birds, the island offers splendid sunset views and the chance to stay in a compound of ecologically minded bungalows that are set up with solar power and a special water filtration system. (Koh Thmei Resort.) Otherwise Koh Thmei is as yet still almost completely untouched and receives very few visitors.
Koh Ta Kiev & Koh Thmei
Koh Thmei Resort
Range: $45
Eight secluded wooden bungalows right on the beach with fan, private bathroom and balcony on the unspoiled island of Koh Thmei in the Ream National Park. Swimming, relaxing, birdwatching, kayaking. Bar and restaurant, Laundry, Travel and Tour info.
Tel: 097-7370400, 089-897830
www.koh-thmei-resort.com
Koh Thmei Island
Coral Beach
Range: $5 - $25
Rustic, ocean’s-edge bungalows on the secluded Koh Takiev island. Snorkeling, jungle, beach, restaurant and bar.
Tel: 088-8301907 +(855)98-258791
Koh Ta Kiev
The Last Point
Range: $2 - $35
Spacious, rustic, thatch and wooden bungalows on the hillside just above
a private beach on the secluded Koh Ta Kiev Island. A true tropical island experience. Boat from Seagarden on Otres 1 Beach everyday at 11:30AM for $12 return.
Tel: 088-5026930
Koh Ta Ki
Most of the island is fairly remote with few options outside your guesthouse—luckily, most of the guest houses on Koh Rong have surprisingly tasty fare and offer both Khmer and Western dishes.
Busy Koh Toch Beach offers the greatest range of dining options. The variety of choices is astonishing, and several restaurants also offer inexpensive but uninspired barbeques on the beach every night. For more local eating options, in Koh Toch village there are several Cambodian-owned restaurants offering simple but delicious dishes that make for a simple, economical breakfast, such as bai sach chrouk (pork and rice) and kuy teav (noodle soup) as well as the ubiquitous fried rice and noodles.
Evenings, you'll find happy hour and drink specials at most places, with beer prices not substantially higher than on the mainland.
Dining & Nightlife in Koh Rong
Sandbank Restaurant
located at Longset Beach, named also 4K Beach. It is a still calm and nice white sand beach and we are located at the Sandbank between river and sea. We serve delicious Thai and Western food and good drinks in our beach bar. A professional massage and a campsite is attached. We offer free board & beach games and kayaks to rent.
Longset Beach, Koh Rong 18000 Cambodia
Eno Cafe
Experience the Italian Flavour on the Island. Authentic Italian Sandwich Home Made Fresh Pasta Real italian Pizza Original Hand Made Piadina Delicious Salad&Bruschetta International Wine of Selection 20 Different Kind Of Coffee Nespresso Machine Home Made Daily Cake and Fresh Croissant Huge English Breakfast
Koh Toch Village Opposite Sun Flower Guesthouse, Koh Rong 18000 Cambodia
Mad Monkey
Mad Monkey has built a reputation for offering the same hearty fare on Koh Rong at the same low prices that their parent, Monkey Republic, offers on the mainland. Feast on English-style pub grub, Khmer favorites and excellent Thai curries. Drinks are cheap and plentiful, with 2-for-1 cocktails during the popular nightly happy hour.
Koh Rong Island, Koh Toch Beach
Recommendations
Most visitors to Cambodia's islands are happy to do little more than relax and sunbathe on the gorgeous beaches. If you're looking for something more adventurous, there are many activities to keep you busy on the islands.
The waters off the islands offer dozens of good SCUBA DIVING opportunities. The rocky reefs surrounding Koh Rong, Koh Rong Sanloem and Koh Kon, support corals and abundant colorful sea and fish life. Visibility is best during the dry season from October to June, and most of the dive sites, especially at the nearby islands, are comparatively shallow, to around 15 meters. The more distant Koh Tang, Koh Prins and Poulou Wai offer the best diving locations, superior visibility as well as deeper dive sites.
Things To Do
There are several dive outfits located in Sihanoukville as well as on Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem offering everything from fun dive to certification. The dive outfits can also help organize trips to the more distant islands including Koh Tang and Koh Prins and even Condor Reef.
You'll find ample SNORKELING opportunities on all of the islands, and most of the bungalows have snorkel equipment to rent for under $5. It's also sometimes possible to tag along on one of the diving trips that leave if you'd like to snorkel further afield.
Although most of the islands aren't very big, Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem are big enough to offer multi-day TREKKING opportunities, and there are a few marked paths for shorter trips. Inquire at your guesthouse for more details.
BIRD WATCHING opportunities abound, especially on the smaller islands of Koh Ta Kiev and Koh Thmei, which is home to over 150 species.
ISLAND-HOPPING DAY CRUISES and PARTY CRUISES are available from Koh Rong (map) and Koh Rong Sanloem (map), but it's best to organize from the mainland if you're looking for something other than a day trip. The island hopping cruises are the same as from the mainland: two or three islands, a barbecue lunch, some snorkling and fishing and a chance to visit a couple of the smaller, less inhabited islands.
Those who enjoy FISHING will find lots to do on the islands, from spear fishing on Koh Ta Kiev to overnight boat trips. And you can get in some casual fishing on the island hopping day cruises. Most have basic equipment. Fishing trips can be organized from Sihanoukville or the big islands, though you have a better selection in Sihanoukville.
Scuba Diving at the Islands
The local waters are warm (consistently between 27-31C) and though visibility can be quite variable, especially during the monsoon season. In the diving season from October to June visibility ranges from 10-25 meters on good days, even at nearby islands such as Koh Rong Sanloem - better at more distant sites such as Koh Tang. Most of the dive sites are comparatively shallow (around 15 meters) and gentle currents around the islands allow drift diving over the reefs and outcroppings.
Koh Rong Many good snorkeling areas and near two dozen good dive sites around the island. Depths of 5-15 meters.
Koh Rong Sanloem Rocky reefs host a variety of marine life in shallow waters and at depths up to 18 meters. Like all of the nearby islands the best diving and visibility is on the west side. Species sightings include cobia, puffer fish, moray eels, octopus, rays, crabs, nudibranch, cuttlefish, scorpion fish, lion fish, barracuda, yellow goatfish, parrotfish and more.
Koh Kon is, as the name implies, a small island sitting just off the north tip of Koh Rong Samloem. Rocky, coral encrusted outcrops on the west and south sides of the island provide home to a variety of corals and marine life including anemones, box fish, parrot fish, yellow goat fish, snappers, stingrays, moray eels and cat sharks. Visibility is moderate, averaging around 10 meters, though better on some days.
Koh Tang, Koh Prins, Poulou Wai Some of the best diving in the area lay 4-8 hours southwest, around Koh Tang, Koh Prins and Poulo Wai. The area has rocky reefs, depths of 15-40m and much better visibility than reefs closer to shore, ranging from 10-30m, usually around 15m. Koh Prins has two shipwrecks to the northwest at 30-40m. Koh Tang is a favorite diver’s destination. The island played a major role in the 'Mayaguez Incident' and still shows the scarring of the May 1975 battle between American and Khmer Rouge forces. The surrounding waters offer several reefs and outcroppings displaying a particularly colorful variety of hard and soft corals, an abundance of other marine life, and consistently good visibility.